Making a momoyama kosode…

I am a member of a historical society. I reenact history (I am a member of the SCA), specifically Japanese history in the Momoyama period (the period right before Edo). Modern kimono just do not cut it for historical reenactment, as there are a few differences between the historical kosode and the kimono.

It is interesting to not that the kosode began its transformation to the modern kimono in the Momoyama period. That being said I need to make a kosode in the look and style of the period to wear for our events.

Here is the general guide and layout for patchwork style kosode in the day. The patchwork first began as a frugal attempt to salvage damaged kimono into a single usable one. In the momoyama period it became a big fashion statement. So…I selected 2 modern kimono of similar size to combine into a patchwork style.

Guide to momoyama patchwork layouts – there are many layouts but here are a few at a glance.

I begin by cutting apart the kimono in the style desired. I opted to use kimono instead of fabric store fabric because the kimono provided me with an authentic weave and quality of fabric I just dont find at local fabric stores.

I strip the collars because they are not historically accurate. The two main problems with modern kimono are that their collars and sleeves are not accurate.

I take the collars apart so that they are a single piece instead of 2 pieces to create the modern look.

I decided to do a half half collar – one side green, the other side red. I want the red collar on the left side so it is a strong statement: a red slash across my torso.

I resume cutting now that the collars are out of the way…some of the Momoyama kosode do have cut collars. I don’t want that look. During the cutting I pause to consider my layout. I really like this layout.

When I finally get around to sewing I begin with the sleeves because they are simple. I will not convert the sleeves tot he kosode style until AFTER I have finished sewing everything else.

Behold the sewn together Momoyama patchwork style! I could wear this as a near modern kimono..but the collar is now historical. Next I have to sew the sleeves into the historical style. the collar required being hand sewn back on and took about 2 hours total.

Finished kosode coming soon 😀

Heian Stamps

I love to check the stamps when I receive a package from Japan. Most of the time they are very mild, however I did once receive a real treasure of a stamp set. Behold…the heian court stamp collection:

Book review: Textiles – No. 2 Arts & Crafts of Japan

Title: Textiles – No. 2 Arts & Crafts of Japan
Published: 1957
Original cost: $3.00
I paid: $23.00 with shipping
Size: Small – there are only 70 pages, but these pages are packed full of information and textile works of art that span through the ages. A little book that packs a punch.

This book is an outstanding resource for those who crave historical information in regards to textile techniques from as far back as the Nara period up to the Meije era. In particular I got this book to try and learn more about the Kosode during the Momoyama period. There are a variety of quality color and black and white photos inside this book that provide great examples of kosode and kimono through the centuries. In the back of the book there is a true gem of a discovery…a color scale, and reference list of the plants used to make the various colors used in dyes. Later on Im going to retype up the dye list from this book and share it online to a few historical re-enactment groups as a resource tool for them.

If you are a history buff this is a great book for you.

2 upcoming kimono events…

*THIS WEEKEND – Kimono models wanted! I’m having a mini party at my house, and am hosting an amateur photoshoot to show off my new kimono stock. I’m looking for local kimono addicts to stop in and strike a pose. Props, and fun ideas are welcome. Saturday, 4pm..my place. Email me at silent_creed@hotmail.com is you would like my address so you can come. Additionally I have 6 little humble gifts to offer the models who show. I have a few interesting pieces including a womans haori that features a woman wearing a kimono while viewing a cemetery in the lining.

*KIMONO SWAP MEET: AUGUST 27, 2011. Hosted at the gorgeous historic Ann Manor in the Courtyard, Toledo Ohio. Kimono, obi, Japanese home decor, and more are all welcome. Trade, or cash is also welcome. Starting time is 4pm and will go until at least 7pm if not longer. We have around 20+ people already confirmed for this event! Again, email me if you are interested and need more details. If you are traveling far and might need a place to stay, I will gladly let someone sleep over at no cost so that they might attend this. Email me at silent_creed@hotmail.com.

Kimono Swap Meet

KIMONO SWAP MEET
Small update, the kimono swap meet is still in the plans and works. It will be hosted sometime in Aug, either in the middle or late of the month. I will post details asap.

WHERE: Toledo, Ohio – exact location to be announced when details are final. We do have a nice secure locations.
What: Bring anything you want to trade, or sell! Kimono, obi, accessories, Japanese household items, Japanese art,Japanese collectibles, etc!
Admission: Free! Everyone is welcome so long as you are looking to buy, sell, or trade! Everyone there will be a fellow kimono addict :). Several people are planning on coming to this from out of state. You don’t have to be local to come.

On that note I am off to Indianapolis for some Art an History tourism. I’ll bring back photos from the Art Museum for everyone 🙂

Glass City Con 2011 – Review, photos, and fun!

Glass City Con 2011 was a blast! Attendance was up, there were tons of panels, lots of costumes, and epic shopping to be had! There were around 30 artists, and 30 vendors all offering goodies! The kimono lounge was a blast: we had free food and drink, one of the members is a certified massage therapist and was giving free massages, and best of all comfy couches to chill on during the con!

This con was my first time teaching a panel / class about ‘The Pleasure Quarters of Japan’. I started in the late Momoyama period, using the political picture there to paint the dramatic setting and backdrop that gave birth to the Edo period and more importantly the sex trade in early Edo. The class was packed, and by the end more people had come in leaving only standing room – people standing against the walls to listen. The class went very well and I have received a lot of positive feedback. Below are photos from the con and feedback from the panel I got.

I cant wait for 2012 Glass City Con! It was great seeing everyone come out and have so much fun!

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I really enjoyed your panel on Saturday night. It was so wonderful to hear someone treat the woman’s side of the story with so much respect and emphasis on the point that oftentimes it was not their choice to go into prostitution and that yes, it was very dangerous for them to do so. They were treated like cattle. Also bringing up the other side of it, the castle destroyers, and showing that certain women did have the power to ruin was really refreshing. I don’t think a lot of people realize either side of that part of women’s history…that you have the lower class prostitutes that are kept in cages and were just supply and demand, and then there were the courtesans that are 100% capable of playing the power/politics game, but they were still, as you put it, “caged birds.”

Also, thank you for showing that geisha are not prostitutes. That seems to be another common misconception and I loved how you backed it up with historical fact.

You would make a wonderful history/gender studies professor.

Thanks again,
Athena

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Just some photos, far from all that should go up!

Sign in the kimono lounge…

The kimono lounge setup and ready to go BEFORE the con opens! The man in there is my very tired husband.

Attendees rocking out 2 very epic mens haori!

Even pokemon love kimono!

Free massages by a professional for members of the NWO Kimono Society at our lounge.

A number of Japanese stopped by the lounge and were just shocked, they took many photos of the kimono for sale and the lounge. I sold many kimono to Japanese women who were shocked at how low the prices were.

A vintage Japanese maiko doll that belongs to a member of the NWO Kimono Society.

COSPLAY!

Even the Cons official Mascot went kimono shopping!

Pyramid head, and the Silent Hill Nurses just cant resist haori!

Even a companion cube bought a kimono!

Edo Pleasure Quarters class attendees! This photo was taken right as the class started, not everyone is in the photo. By the end of the class more people had walked in – filling the seats and leaving only standing room.

I bought 2 boxes and shared them…they were…odd.

A woman rockin out a mens kimono!

Epic cosplay!

The media was out!

Glass City Con 2011 – Toledo

Admission: FREE!
Main website: http://www.glasscitycon.com/
Schedule of panels and events: http://glasscitycon.com/files/gcc3schedule.pdf
Size: Around 3000 people come out for this con!
Dates: July 9 & 10, a Sat and Sunday

While admission is free, I always suggest people bring money for food and epic shopping. See you there!